From how to plant, to fertilizing, pruning and staking – see all of our best tomato advice below!
Growing Tomatoes
Tomatoes
Looking for a few simple ways to keep your tomatoes from getting blossom end rot this year?
There is nothing more discouraging than watching a perfectly healthy tomato plant produce tomatoes that suddenly begin to brown off on one end – and then slowly see those tomatoes rot away!
Blossom end rot occurs at the end of fruits as they develop and ripen. In essence, the tissue on the flowering end of the fruit rots away. In the process, it leaves behind an ugly brown scar. One that severely impacts the health and vitality of the tomato, and the plant’s overall yield. It can be frustrating for sure, but the good news is that this issue can usually be prevented – and all with just a little bit of extra care.
What Causes Blossom Rot – And How To Keep Tomatoes From Getting It!
Blossom end rot is not a disease or an infection that spreads from plant to plant. Nor is it a soil borne issue like tomato blight that lies in wait to return year after year. Instead, it is caused by one simple problem – a lack of calcium being absorbed by the plants.
Unfortunately, although it’s notorious for ruining tomato plants, it can also affect zucchini, squash, pepper and eggplant as well. Many who deal with blossom end rot assume the issue all stems from lack of calcium in the soil. And many times, that is indeed exactly the case.
But it’s important to note that in addition to a lack of available calcium, there can also be other underlying conditions or issues that can prevent your vegetable plants from absorbing the vital mineral. Even when there is plenty of calcium already in the soil!
The real key to success in preventing the issue is to cover both bases. First – making sure your soil is supplied with enough calcium. And second – making sure the soil doesn’t have any issues getting that calcium up into your plants.
Fixing A Lack Of Calcium
To be sure, most issues surrounding blossom end rot have to do purely because the soil does not have enough calcium in it. Luckily, that is a very easy issue to overcome!
First and foremost, the practice of crop rotation is vital in keeping calcium at the ready for plants. In fact, crop rotation is extremely important for keeping all of the nutrients plants need for strong, healthy growth in good supply.
Vegetable plants feed from the soil as they grow and develop. And whether it is corn, beans, lettuce or tomatoes, each vegetable uses a different set of nutrients to thrive. But by moving these crops around, the soil has a chance to replenish what might have been taken from the plants that grew in the space previously.
The simple fact of the matter is if you plant the same plant variety in the same soil space year after year, the soil will eventually run out of nutrients that specific plant needs. Case in point, calcium for tomatoes.
But by rotating your tomato crop each year, you can help alleviate the issue. For best results, rotate your tomatoes so that they never grow in the space for at least three full seasons. And for potted tomatoes, changing out the soil ever year is a must.
Replenishing Calcium Levels In The Soil To Avoid Blossom End Rot
Beyond crop rotation, it’s also important to routinely replenish the calcium levels in garden soil. One of the quickest and easiest ways to do this is by adding pulverized egg shell powder into the soil – right as you plant!
Egg shells contain over 90% calcium carbonate. And by using a few tablespoons of finely crushed egg shells into each planting hole as you plant – you can allow the soil and the plant’s roots to be able to have quick access to it. But the key is to grind the egg shells as finely as possible. See our article: How To Use Egg Shells To Grow Incredible Tomatoes!
Whole shells or partial shells can take months and months to decompose. And they won’t help this year’s plants. But by powderizing the shells, the nutrients can quickly absorb.
In addition to adding crushed egg shell powder, you can also add, wood ashes, bone meal or lime to the soil to help increase calcium levels. Affiliate Link: Jobe’s Organics Garden Lime
How To Make Sure Plants Can Absorb Calcium
As mentioned before, many times, there can actually be plenty of calcium present in the soil, but the plants simply can’t take it in. When it comes to this issue, there are usually 3 main culprits: improper watering, over-fertilizing, or having a compacted root system for your tomato plant.
Both over and under-watering play a huge factor in causing blossom rot. When a plant receives too much water, the roots are unable to take in nutrients. As they swell with water, they lose their ability to absorb. The same goes for when the roots shrivel from drought-like conditions. That is why proper watering is vital!
Tomatoes should receive around an inch of water per week to help develop healthy root systems. If your plants begin to turn yellow, it’s a sign that over-watering is occurring. Likewise, if plants are wilted and the leaves are curling up, there is not enough water in the soil for the plants to grow and develop.
When you water, it’s more important to water deeply than more frequently. Frequent, shallow watering does not allow the roots to grow deep into the soil. Not only does it lead to the roots drying out too quickly, it also means the roots are not deep enough to get to more of the calcium in the soil.
Compacted Roots
Another way tomato plants have difficulty absorbing calcium is when their roots are compacted in the soil. Packed soil suffocates the tiny intakes within the root nodules. When this happens, the tomato plants can’t absorb water or nutrients.
To keep soil from getting crushed down, keep foot traffic around plants to an absolute minimum. Especially within 12 to 18 inches in diameter around each plant. This allows the soil to remain loose and free for easy nutrient intake.Over Fertilizing
As the old saying goes, too much of a good thing can be a bad thing. And that is certainly the case when tomato plants are over-fertilized.
When tomatoes receive too heavy of a dose of nitrogen magnesium and phosphorous, they can crowd out the intake of calcium. The result is heavy top growth and a mess of tomatoes with blossom end rot! Fertilize low and slow with tomatoes to keep growth steady and strong.
Early Season Blossom End Rot
One final note about blossom end rot. In the early spring, it’s quite common for the first few tomatoes on a plant to show some signs of blossom end rot. This is actually from the initial stress of fruit production, and not always a sign of a calcium deficiency.
Simply pick these first few tomatoes off the vine and allow the plant to settle into normal production. If the problem persists into the second or third week, then it’s time to consider a calcium issue being the problem. Here is to stopping tomato blossom end rot, and to a great tomato harvest this year! For more information keeping your tomato plants healthy and producing big, be sure to check out: Why Your Tomato Leaves Are Turning Yellow – And How To Fix The Problem!
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Tomatoes
Looking for few unique and unusual tomato plants to grow in your garden, raised beds or containers this year? Ones that can not only add big color and interest – but also incredible flavor too?
When it comes to growing vegetables, tomatoes are certainly at the top of the list for most gardeners. Whether growing classic slicing, cherry, or salsa and sauce making paste varieties, tomatoes provide endless possibilities for both the gardener and the taste buds.
But when growing tomatoes, you don’t have to settle for the same old boring typical “red” types you see in supermarkets. Over the last decade or two, there has been nothing short of an explosion in tomato varieties. Many old heirloom tomato types have been brought back to life by growers – and many more continue to be developed by tomato growing enthusiasts.
One thing is for sure, the entire resurgence has been incredible for backyard gardeners. No longer do tomato loving growers have to limit themselves to planting and harvesting traditional red tomatoes with less than spectacular flavor. To prove that point, today’s article features 4 of the most unique and flavorful tomatoes around, and they are just waiting for you to try them out this year!
4 Unusual Tomato Plants To Grow In Your Garden This Year
#1 Black Truffle Tomato
True to its name, the Black Truffle heirloom tomato gets its name from its unique pear shape that closely resembles a truffle. And when it comes to flavor, it’s every bit as special as truffles!
Originally from Russia, the tomato features a deep mahogany-brown color with hints of purple, red, and green on top. It makes for quite the beautiful fruit when hanging from the vine – or on a plate. But even better, the flesh of this tomato is dense and meaty with very few seeds, making it an excellent choice for slicing, cooking, and preserving.
As for flavor, the Black Truffle tomato is known for its deep, rich, smoky taste. It also has the perfect balance of sweetness and acidity, making it ideal for fresh salads, sandwiches, and sauces. And that meaty interior holds up well in roasted dishes too!
Black Truffle is easy and straightforward to grow from seed. Even better, as an heirloom variety, you can save seeds from year to year to grow for free. Affiliate Seed Link: Black Truffle Seeds
The plant thrives in full sun, well-draining soil, and needs to a stake or cage to help hold its heavy fruit load. As for production – you will get plenty of fresh tomatoes all season long. As an indeterminate plant, it’s highly productive, continuing to push out fruit right up until the first frost.
#2. Berkeley Tie Dye Tomato
Talk about color, the Berkeley Tie Dye tomato has an incredibly vibrant, multicolored skin. The tomato ripens with a gorgeous mix of green, red, orange, and yellow streaks, giving it its tie-dye namesake.
But as beautiful as the tomato is outside when growing in the garden, when sliced open, its beefy interior has a marbled coloring of pink, red and green that is simply stunning.The beefsteak tomato grows to a nice mid-size fruit, perfect for topping sandwiches, hamburgers – or simply eating fresh.
Another heirloom tomato, the seeds of Berkeley can also be saved from a harvest to grow again. The tomato thrives in full sun and fertile soil, and will usually go from seed to harvest in about 80 days. As an intermediate, it will produce until frost takes it out late in the season Affiliate Link: Pink Berkeley Tye Dye Heirloom Tomato Premium Seeds
#3. The Sart Roliose Tomato
In terms of sheer beauty in the garden – it is hard to beat the Sart Roliose tomato. Originally bred in Belgium, this variety has been gaining in popularity among heirloom gardeners all over the world.
When ripe, the medium sized tomato boasts an alluring blend of yellow, pink, gold and orange coloring. The marbling on the tomato is simply beautiful. But it gets even better when you slice it open to find a red marbled flesh filled with gold and yellow streaks.
With all of those accolades, it’s hard to believe the taste is even better. The variety has very few seeds, and much like the Black Truffle, it has a great balance of sweetness and acidity. The flesh is juicy and tender and wondrous for fresh eating or in salads.
As with most tomatoes, it thrives in full sun. It also needs well-draining soil and consistent watering to stay healthy and robust. This variety is highly productive as an intermediate. It will typically begin to produce and ripen fruit around the 80 day mark, so starting from seed indoors early is a must. See: How To Start Tomato Plants Indoors From Seed – 3 Secrets To Grow Great Transplants!
The seeds are quite rare to find. The good news is as an heirloom, once you grow it, you can save the seeds from year to year. Baker Creek Seed Link: Sart Roloise Seeds
#4. Queen Of The Night Tomatoes – One Of The Most Unusual Tomato Plants You Will Ever Grow!
Last but not least, there is the Queen Of The Night tomato variety! This tomato (pictured at the top of the article), hails from the Rhine region of Germany and is it ever a showpiece! The plant produces large amounts of round, three-to-four ounce fruits in a with black, crimson and orange coloring. Seed Link: Queen Of The Night Tomato Seeds
When you cut into the fruit, you will find a stunning reddish-orange color. And the taste? It’s best described as both sweet, and loaded with deep rich tomato taste! The plant has a bit smaller growth pattern, topping out around 5 feet in height.
It too is an indeterminate and will produce all season long. And as an heirloom – its seeds can be saved from year to year quite successfully. Seed Link: Queen of The Night Tomato Premium Seeds
Here is to adding a little flair, flavor and uniqueness to your garden this year by growing a few unusual tomatoes!
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Tomatoes
If you are missing that delicious taste of garden fresh tomatoes this winter – you need to try your hand at growing a Red Robin Dwarf tomato plant indoors – it really is the perfect tomato plant to keep on enjoying home grown tomatoes all winter long – right in your windowsill!
Let’s face it, for gardeners, wintertime can be tough. Not only are the days colder and the daylight hours shorter – it’s also a bit depressing heading to your local grocery store and finding less than desirable fruit and vegetables. And spring can seem a long way off in the middle of December or January!
But that’s exactly where growing a few fresh tomatoes can help. And yes, although growing tomatoes indoors during the middle of winter might seem like more than a simple challenge, it doesn’t have to be. Especially when you grow a dwarf tomato variety like Red Robin.
The Beauty Of The Red Robin Dwarf Tomato Plant – The Perfect Tomato Plant To Grow Indoors
Red Robin dwarf is an easy to grow tomato variety that is small enough to fit in a sunny windowsill – or can grow just as happily under a small, tabletop LED grow light. The plant grows to reach only about 12 inches tall, making it a perfect fit for small spaces, countertops, or anywhere it can get a little light.
The seeds are easy to start, germinating and growing quickly in the warmth of the indoors. But perhaps best of all, although it may be small in size, this sturdy little plant can produce a big crop of small, bright red cherry tomatoes. Tomatoes that are sweet, juicy, and perfect for salads and snacking.
Here is an in-depth look at how to plant and care for a Red Robin dwarf tomato plant indoors this winter – from seed to harvest!
How To Grow The Perfect Tomato Plant To Grow Indoors This Winter – The Red Robin Dwarf Tomato Plant!
Although you can occasionally find dwarf tomato plants for sale at a local nursery or garden center, in the middle of winter, the easiest method is to simply start your own plants from seed. Affiliate Seed Link: Dwarf Red Robin Tomato Seeds, Heirloom Non-GMO, Sweet, Low Acid, Determinate
One thing to note about the Red Robin variety is that it is a determinate plant. That means it will grows to a set height and produce its fruit all at once over a two to three week period.
Growing a determinate plant makes it even easier to manage indoors. You don’t have to worry about excessive growth or branches sprawling everywhere. It also allows you to plant a couple of plants a few weeks apart to have plenty of fresh tomatoes coming on all winter long.
Planting Seeds – How To Grow The Perfect Tomato Plant To Grow Indoors
As for what you will need in the way of supplies, success all starts with a good quality pot. It’s best to avoid shallow containers. Select pots that are at least 6 to 8 inches deep. This will allow for plenty of root growth to power the plant. In addition, be sure that it has plenty of good drainage holes to let excess moisture escape.
It’s also important to start with a quality, fertile potting soil mix. Like all tomato plants, even though it’s a dwarf variety, Red Robin needs a lot of nutrients to grow, flower and fruit. Affiliate Link: Burpee, 9 Quarts | Premium Organic Potting Natural Soil Mix Food Ideal for Containers
Plant 2 to 3 seeds directly in your pot about 1/4 inch deep in the soil. Planting more than one seed ensures you will have at least one germinate. There is no need to start these as transplants and replant them later since they will stay indoors.
Cover your seeds gently with a thin 1/8th layer of potting mix. Lightly mist the soil to make it moist but not soggy. Place the pot in the warmest location in the house. Contrary to popular belief, the seeds do not need light to sprout – only warmth.
Watering The Seeds…
Water the seeds gently using a spray bottle or small watering can whenever the top layer of soil feels dry. Avoid overwatering, as soggy soil can lead to problems like mold or root rot.
Within 5 to 10 days, you should see tiny green sprouts popping up. Once the seedlings are about 2 inches tall, thin them out by snipping the weaker ones with scissors, leaving the strongest seedling in the pot. You can also lightly lift the extra seedlings from the pot and transplant to have more than one plant.
Caring For Red Robin Tomato Plants Indoors – The Perfect Tomato Plant To Grow Indoors
Once the seeds germinate, place the pot in a sunny, south-facing window where the seeds can get at least 6 to 8 hours of light daily. If you don’t have enough natural light, you can use a small LED grow light. Position the light 6-12 inches above the soil and keep it on for about 12 hours a day.
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Like most tomato plants, Red Robin tomatoes like their soil to be consistently moist, but not soaking wet. Check the soil regularly by touching the top inch. If it feels dry, water the plant until water just starts to drain from the bottom of the pot.
During winter, indoor plants typically don’t dry out as quickly, so you won’t need to water as often as you would in summer. Be careful not to let the soil stay waterlogged, as this can harm roots.
The Red Robin tomato grows best in temperatures between 65-75°F (18-24°C). If growing with a grow light away from a sunny window, be sure to keep the plant in a warm spot away from drafts or cold windows. If the air in your home is very dry, you can use a small humidifier near the plant or misting the leaves with water occasionally.
Fertilizing & Harvesting – The Perfect Tomato Plant To Grow Indoors
Tomato plants are heavy feeders, even small ones like the Red Robin. About 3 weeks after the plant has sprouted, start feeding it with a balanced liquid fertilizer every 2 weeks. Look for a fertilizer that’s labeled for tomatoes or vegetables. Follow the instructions on the label for mixing and applying. Affiliate Fertilizer Link: Espoma Organic 8 Ounce Concentrated Tomato Plant Food
If you notice yellowing leaves or slow growth, it might be a sign the plant needs more nutrients. Always be aware of the soil’s moisture level as well – yellowing leaves can also be a sign of overwatering.
One of the best parts about growing Red Robin tomatoes indoors is watching the plant produce its bright, juicy tomatoes. With proper care, you can expect your plant to start flowering and producing fruit about 55 to 65 days after planting.
The small cherry tomatoes will turn a deep, bright red when they’re fully ripe. The fruit should be firm but slightly soft to the touch. To pick, gently twist the tomatoes off the vine, or use small scissors to snip them off. Be careful not to damage the plant as you harvest.
Because it is a determinate plant, Red Robin will produce all of its tomatoes over a two to three week period. Once that occurs, no amount of fertilizer or watering will bring it back. This is exactly why many gardeners choose to grow a few plants a few weeks apart to always have fresh tomatoes at their disposal.
Here is to growing your own perfect tomatoes indoors this year! For more varieties of tomatoes you can grow indoors, check out our article: How To Grow Cherry Tomatoes Indoors.
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Tomatoes
Not only is it easy to save seeds from your tomato plants this summer – it can also help you grow your best tomato plants ever next year!
Saving seeds is certainly one of the best ways to save on your gardening budget. Let’s face it, seeds are only getting more and more expensive with each passing year. But there is more reason than ever to save seeds from your tomato plants – and it goes far beyond saving money!
By simply selecting seeds from the best tomatoes growing on your best plants this summer, you can greatly improve the quality of your seed stock. That can lead to stronger, healthier plants and a much larger harvest next year as well. And even better, tomatoes with more flavor than ever!
There is little doubt that by continuing to save seeds from your best tomatoes year after year, you can have a big impact on improving your tomato plants. With each passing year, the seeds and plants develop more and learn to adapt to the soil and conditions far better. And by selecting seeds from your top performers, you are saving seeds that are already performing well.
But when it comes to saving seeds, there are a few simple but key steps you must take to make sure your seeds are ready to sprout and grow next year. Here is a look at which tomato seeds you can save, along with how to collect, dry and store them successfully to plant again next year like a pro!
How To Save Tomato Seeds From Your Tomatoes – And Why Late Summer Is The Time For Saving Them!
Knowing Which Seeds You Can Save
When it comes to saving seeds from tomatoes, it’s important to first know that there are some varieties that will work- and some that won’t. And knowing the difference is critical to planting and growing the tomatoes you want to grow.
The seeds of open-pollinated tomatoes (heirloom tomatoes) can be saved. Hybrid tomato varieties on the other hand should not be saved. Why? Because heirloom tomato seeds are pure. This means the seeds you save from an open pollinated plant will grow to be the exact same plant – and more importantly, produce the exact same fruit.
The Issue With Hybrid Tomatoes – How To Save Tomato Seeds From Your Tomatoes
Hybrid tomatoes do not work in the same way. Hybrids are a cross of two or more tomato plants. They are bred to create a unique and new tomato plant and tomato.
Because of this, the seeds from a hybrid tomato will not replicate the hybrid when re-planted. Instead, they usually will revert back to one of the original tomato plants that were crossed to create it – or sometimes to a new mutation of it.
It often results in a plant that will not bear fruit or creates a completely different tomato. And that is not a good thing when you want to grow the same great-tasting tomato from year to year!
So how do you know if your seeds are heirloom or hybrid? The easiest way of course is to check the seed packet. They will almost always tell you if the variety is a hybrid or not. If that is not possible, you can always look up the variety on-line. Almost all seed companies list the particulars of each variety, including if it is an heirloom variety or not.
The Process – How To Save Tomato Seeds From Your Tomatoes
The tomato seed saving process is unique when compared to saving seeds from other vegetables. Tomato seeds have a protective gelatin coating on their outer skin.
When this coating stays intact, it makes it very difficult for the seed to germinate the following year. When a tomato plant grows uninterrupted in the wild, the fruit opens up and then falls to the ground. In doing this, the tomato slowly rots and decomposes.
As the tomato decomposes, the protective outer coat of the seed breaks down. This process of rotting actually helps prepare the seeds that fall for growing the following year. Once this layer is gone, it then allows for easy germination of the seed.
When saving your own tomato seeds, all you need to do is follow the same process. That means allowing the seeds to break down enough to have the protective coat removed. It might sound difficult to do, but the process is quite simple.
Saving Tomato Seeds – How To Save Tomato Seeds From Your Tomatoes
When saving tomato seeds, always begin by selecting a healthy, ripe tomato from your best plant. Whether saving seeds from a tomato, a pepper, or any vegetable, it’s best to save seeds from the healthiest vegetable on the best looking plant.
By selecting from the best stock, you ensure the best chance for good growth, health and success. It all comes down to good genetics. By selecting the best tomatoes, it strengthens the odds for the best traits to carry on.
Once you have your tomato, start by cutting it in half. Next, scoop out the pulp and seeds into a clean mason jar. There is no need to add any water or a lid, you need only the pulp and seeds.
Now it’s time to place the jar in a warm, humid location that is out of the way of everyday traffic. The goal here is to let the tomato rot for a few days. By placing it out of the way, you can also avoid the smell of a rotting tomato. One that usually isn’t too pleasant!
Breaking Down The Protective Coating – How To Save Tomato Seeds From Your Tomatoes
In a few days, the tomato pulp will begin to decompose. Usually, within five days, the pulp will start to display a white or green fuzzy mold. It can take a bit longer in some instances, but a little less than a week is usually a good rule of thumb for getting your seeds and pulp to begin molding.
Once the tomato pulp and seeds have mold covering most of the pulp, it’s time to take action. Begin by pouring water into the jar and wash off the mold. Repeat the process a few times until the seeds are clean.
Once clean, fill the jar one more time with water. The good seeds will sink to the bottom, allowing you to skim off the pulp and bad seeds. Once you skim off any remaining pulp and floating seeds, pour the water out. The seeds left are now ready to dry and save.
To dry, place the seeds out on a paper towel or newspaper for a few days. It’s very important to let tomato seeds dry completely before storing. This helps to maintain the seed’s vitality and allows it to store longer as well.
Once dry, put the seeds in a sealed plastic baggie or mason jar with a covered lid. Store in a cool, dry and dark location. If you have room, the refrigerator makes an excellent storage location for seeds.
Once garden season roll around – you’ll be ready to grow your best tomato plants ever! See our article: How To Know When To Start Tomato Plants Indoors – A Simple Formula For Perfect Timing!
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Tomatoes
Wondering how to stop your tomatoes from splitting and cracking as they ripen on your plants this summer?
For a gardener, it can be all but defeating to see a beautiful crop of developing tomatoes suddenly begin to blister, crack and split. Not only does it make for an unsightly tomato, it also damages the fruit in the process. In fact, quite often, it can ruin a tomato entirely!
When a tomato splits open on the vine, the tender flesh begins to ooze out moisture. Unfortunately, when that happens, a portion of the flavor exits as well. But even worse, all of that moisture can also attract a whole host of pests who enjoy feeding on the juice.
Why Tomatoes Blister, Crack & Split
So what causes tomatoes to crack and split? Contrary to popular belief, it has nothing to do with a lack of nutrients in the soil. In fact, applying more fertilizer and nutrients will not help them stop cracking in the least. Cracking and splitting is also not the result of a pest or disease issue.
Instead, the issue is a direct result of large swings or fluctuations in the moisture a tomato plant receives. As in plants getting too much water all at once – or far too little over an extended period of time.
Although you certainly can’t control what nature brings to your tomato crop in the form of rain or drought, there are a few simple tips that can go a long way in helping to prevent moisture issues from blistering and ruining your tomato crop. And as you will see below, the real key to success is to jump into action as soon as you see the first signs of your tomatoes starting to blister!
How To Stop Tomatoes From Splitting & Cracking
Watering Tomato Plants
Without a doubt, how and when you water your plants is one of the biggest factors in keeping them safe from blistering.
When it comes to proper moisture for tomato plants, on average, a plant should receive between 1 to 1.25 inches of rain per week. That is enough water to keep the roots of your plants moist, allowing them to easily absorb the moisture and nutrients they need.
So how do you know if your plants need water? The best way is to check the soil down about three to four inches in depth. To do this, you can use a wooden skewer or an inexpensive soil moisture meter.
If the skewer comes up with a bit of soil sticking to it, it is a good indication that there is still moisture around the roots. The moisture meter, of course, is far more accurate. It can give you an instant reading of exactly how much moisture is right at the root level. Affiliate Product Link: Soil Moisture Meter Probe
The moisture level around the roots of tomato plants should be somewhere between 40% and 70%. Any more or less for an extended time can lead to tomatoes starting to crack and blister. So what is the best way to water your plants to make sure you give them exactly what they need? It all starts by watering less often – but deeper into the soil!
Watering Tomato Plants Correctly – How To Stop Tomatoes From Splitting & Cracking
One of the biggest mistakes gardeners often make it to water their plants too often and too shallow. Watering just a little every day may keep the plants supplied with water, but it causes long term issues for the plant.
Shallow watering keeps the roots of tomato plants near the surface. When that happens, it leaves them more vulnerable to drying out too quick, or becoming overly soggy when too much rain occurs.
When watering, water deep. Allow enough water to get down farther into the soil to develop strong, deep roots. This is also one more reason to plant your tomatoes deep in the soil. The deeper you plant, the more roots develop down in the soil where they are less vulnerable to watering issues.
The Power Of Mulch – How To Stop Tomatoes From Splitting & Cracking
One of the best ways to help your watering efforts is by always mulching your tomato plants. A thick layer of organic mulch (straw, grass clippings, etc.) will do wonders for your tomato plants. Especially when it comes to preventing them from splitting.
Mulch helps to regulate the soil temperature and moisture levels. It keeps the soil from drying out too fast, which is excellent during drought-like conditions. But it also helps shed away excess water during hard storms or heavy rains.
With a more balanced soil temperature and moisture level, the plants do not suffer the stress that can lead to the fruit blistering.
So how much mulch is enough? It’s best to apply at least 4 inches around the plant, making sure to mulch wide enough enough to cover the root zone. Not only will it help to keep them from splitting, it will also keep away competing weeds too!
Pick Early – How To Stop Tomatoes From Cracking or Splitting
Last but not least, always, always, always pick your tomatoes early off of your plants! Picking tomatoes when they first start to turn and letting them ripen off the vine is a great way to prevent cracking. And no – it will not affect the flavor or taste. In fact, it can often improve it! See: How To Get Your Tomatoes To Ripen Faster – 4 Simple Secrets To Speed Up Ripening!
Once tomatoes slightly start to turn from the unripe, solid green stage, the ripening process has begun. And once this happens, they do not need to stay on the plant to complete the ripening process.
The good news is that once you take them off the plant – the stress of moisture or heat is gone. And as long as you ripen them in a cooler place out of the sun, there is no worry of splitting or cracking!
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Tomatoes
There is no faster way to preserve a portion of your tomato harvest this year than to freeze your tomatoes – and is it ever easy to do!
One thing is for sure, although it seems like forever for your first tomatoes to finally begin to ripen, once they do, the floodgates seem to open. Before you know it, you can have bushels of tomatoes sitting on the counter – and if you don’t act fast – they can start to go to waste quickly.
For many, canning is the first thing that comes to mind. It’s certainly true that you can preserve a tremendous amount of tomato products by canning, but for some gardeners, the time it takes to do so can seem impossible to find. But that is exactly where freezing can save the day!
Freezing some of your tomato crop can be a fast and efficient solution for preserving a harvest for later use. And best of all – there are 3 easy and simple solutions to do just that – all without ever having to heat that kitchen up once with hot, boiling water, jars and lids.
How To Freeze Tomatoes With Ease – 3 Simple Methods To Preserve Tomatoes!
1) Freezing Tomatoes Without Skins
For many recipes, it’s best if the skins of the tomatoes are removed. And for this reason, freezing them without the skins can make using them later much easier.
The most traditional method is to place the tomatoes in scalding hot water, and quickly place into an ice bath. That process works, but it can be difficult. Even more, it can be hard and quite hot on your hands to peel the skins off. But there is an easier way. And better yet, it involves no scalding hot water at all!
To begin, wash the tomatoes in cool water and then slice off the top stem. Dry off the tomatoes and place in the freezer on a shallow pan. Baking pans work best for this but any shallow pan will do.
All you have to do then is wait. Allow the tomatoes to freeze for two to three hours. Remove them from the freezer and run under cold water over them. It’s quite amazing but the skins will separate and slip off easily from the tomato!
All that is left is to pack and freeze the now-peeled tomatoes in an air tight container or freezer bag. Again, it’s best to save some smaller and larger bags for small or large dishes so there is little waste later on. Product Link : Gallon Freezer Bags
2) Freezing Half Tomatoes – How To Freeze Tomatoes With Ease
If you love growing, harvesting and preserving paste tomatoes, this method is an excellent choice for freezing! It works great with Roma, Amish Paste, San Marzano, and other paste-style tomatoes.
Paste tomatoes are the choice when it comes to making sauces, salsa and marinara. And this quick and easy method can help you preserve plenty for having ready-made sauce tomatoes on hand anytime you need.
Simply wash tomatoes in cool water and slice in half. Next, take a spoon, scoop out the inner seed core and discard. Then, using the method from above, place the half-tomatoes on a baking pan and freeze for two to three hours. Pop out of the freezer, remove the skins under cold water, and freeze!
You are left with ready-to-use sauce tomatoes that can be perfect for a quick sauce, a fast batch of salsa, or a ready to go marinara sauce that tastes like it just came from the garden. By slicing the tomatoes in half, you can also stack more together to save valuable freezer space as well.
So what if you are really overwhelmed with a big harvest and need to freeze lots of tomatoes fast? Then freezing them whole with the skins on is the answer!
3) Freezing Tomatoes Whole – How To Freeze Tomatoes With Ease
One of the easiest ways to preserve a tomato harvest without canning is to simply freeze them whole – skins and all. It’s truly as simple as harvesting, washing, drying and freezing!
As with preserving any vegetables from the garden, it’s important to start by selecting only firm, blemish-free fruit for freezing. Even a small blemish or soft spot can quickly go bad when preserving a whole tomato, so always start with tomatoes that are fresh and free of any defects.
Wash in cool water and allow the tomatoes to dry thoroughly. Drying the tomatoes is critical before freezing to help avoid freezer burn. In addition, it keeps them from freezing and sticking together when you go to use them later.
Once dry, seal the tomatoes in an air tight freezer bag or container. Freeze in different size quantities to use as needed throughout the year. Freeze a few bags with just a few tomatoes for small dishes, and a few larger ones for family meals.
When storing, vacuum sealers work best. They remove the excess air and protect the tomatoes better for long term storage. Traditional zip up freezer bags will work, but the tomatoes will not keep as well or as long. Product Affiliate Link: FoodSaver Vacuum Sealer Machine, Automatic Bag Detection
Don’t Forget Sun Drying Tomatoes – How To Freeze Tomatoes With Ease
If you are still looking for other ways to preserve without canning, give sun drying your tomatoes a try. Although you can truly use the sun for the entire process, it’s also quite easy to use a low setting on your oven to accomplish the same result.
For more on the exact method, check out our article How To Make Sun Dried Tomatoes In The Oven – With Ease! It’s just one more way to preserve the amazing taste of fresh, homegrown tomatoes – without having to fire up that canner!
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Tomatoes
When it comes to getting your tomato plants to produce a great big crop of tomatoes – how and when you water your plants in the summer can make a huge difference for your crop!
There is little doubt that tomatoes are one of the neediest plants of all in a vegetable garden. Not only do they require a lot of nutrients from the soil in order to grow and produce, they also need a lot of protection from potential pests and disease.
But what can really make or break tomato plants when it comes to their health and productivity is water – or more to the point – how much, how little and how often they get water to fuel their growth, blooms and fruit.
When you consider that tomatoes are made up of 95% water, it’s easy to see why water is so vital. But it’s not just the tomato fruits that need moisture to fill out. The branches, stems and roots of tomato plants are also made up of a tremendous amount of water too.
But, as you will see below, there is a fine line between plants getting too much water or too little. Which is exactly why watering them just right is so vital! With that in mind, here is a look at how and when to water tomato plants to perfection – whether you grow them in a traditional garden setting or in a container.
The Best Way To Water Tomato Plants In Summer
How you water your tomato plants first depends of how and where you grow your plants. When growing in the ground, whether it be in a traditional garden or raised bed space, your plants’ watering needs will be far different than if you grow your tomatoes in containers or grow bags.
With that in mind, we will take a look at how to water best with each growing method, starting with tomatoes growing in the ground.
How To Water Tomato Plants Growing In The Ground – The Best Way To Water Tomato Plants
For those that grow their tomatoes in the ground, the biggest mistake often made when watering is actually watering too often and too much.
The secret to success when watering in-ground tomatoes is to water less often, but more thoroughly. Unfortunately, if you water your plants every day, the roots never drive deep into the soil. Instead, they stay up close to soak in the constant moisture.
This actually harms the tomato plant in several ways. First and foremost, the plants develop far fewer roots. That in turn, means there is less ability for the plant to soak in nutrients and moisture from the soil. But those shallow roots also allow the plant to dry out quickly in the hot summer sun. Even worse, it also makes the plant weak and vulnerable to toppling over in storms or when loaded with fruit.
More Trouble For Over Watered Plants…
But perhaps the biggest issue of all with overwatered plants is that the roots swell and become water-logged. When this occurs, they are unable to take in any nutrients or moisture. And the plant begins to weaken with yellowing or curling leaves.
Unfortunately, many gardeners think at this point their plants must need more water. And as they water again, the plants suffer even more. If all of that wasn’t enough bad news for overwatering, it can also lead to cracked and split tomatoes on the vine. This is because the fruit has too much moisture, causing the skin to burst open.
The Best Way To Water Tomato Plants In The Ground
Once plants are established (3 to 4 weeks old), unless you are living in a desert or in an extremely hot and arid climate, tomato plants in the ground should be watered only a few times a week. And that is only if no rain has fallen during the week.
Through the summer, tomato plants need a total of about 1 to 1.5 inches of water per week. When you do water, it should be low and slow. Water with a slow or weak stream, letting the water penetrate down deep in the soil. This will allow the roots to grow down deep as well.
So what constitutes 1 to 1.5 inches of rain per week? If you water your plants a few times a week, that would be about 1/2 to 2/3rds of a gallon of water slowly watered into each plant per watering. This allows enough water to get down deep in the soil.
Watering Tomatoes Growing In Containers Or Pots – The Best Way To Water Tomatoes In The Summer
So what about tomatoes growing in containers or grow bags? Because of the limited soil space, these plants often need watering every day in the summer. In fact, sometimes twice a day depending on their size. But here again, you need to be careful not to overwater!
With container plants, the best method for success is to use an inexpensive soil moisture meter probe. These allow you to instantly read the soil moisture down at the root level. (These work great for in ground tomato checking too!) Affiliate Product Link: Soil Moisture Meter With Deep Probe
The moisture of the soil for tomato plants should range between 40% on the low end and 80% on the high end. Ideally, it’s best to keep it somewhere in the middle of that range. Only water when the moisture drops to near 40%. And never water when it is above or around 60%.
Last but not least, when growing in containers, make sure your pots or grow bags have good drainage holes. If the plant can’t shed excess water, it will suffer!
Summer Fertilizing – The Best Way To Water Tomato Plants
Last but not least, in addition to watering, don’t forget to keep your tomato plants powered up! Fertilizing tomato plants every ten to fourteen days with a light dose of liquid fertilizer will do wonders to keep plants both healthy and producing. See: How To Fertilize Tomato Plants In The Summer For A Bigger Harvest
When fertilizing, select a liquid fertilizer that is loaded with phosphorous and potassium. These two nutrients are the key energy sources for producing blooms and developing fruit. Look for a fertilizer with two to three times the amount of each versus nitrogen. Affiliate Product Link: Tomato Booster Fertilizer
Use at about 1/2 of the recommended strength. This will allow for lighter but more consistent doses of energy to keep your tomatoes producing.
Here’s to watering your tomato plants for big success this year – and to your best harvest ever!
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Tomatoes
Looking for a few simple tips and tricks to get your tomatoes to ripen a little faster this summer?
One of the toughest things for a gardener to do is to wait for their tomatoes to turn to their perfect shade of ripeness. Especially early in the season when it can seemingly take forever for the first fruits to finally begin to turn color!
All gardeners know the excitement of watching that first bloom on their plant turn into a tiny green tomato as late spring or early summer arrives. But then the waiting game ensues. And as the weeks go by – and those same first tomatoes are still green – you begin to wonder if you will ever get to taste a ripe tomato at all!
It’s certainly true that tomatoes take a long time to reach maturity. In fact, along with pepper plants, they have one of the longest seed-to-harvest time frames of any vegetable plant.
But here is the good news, no matter what type of tomato you grow, there are a few simple secrets that can help your plants and those delicious tomatoes they produce to get to the dinner table faster than ever. And as you will see below, it all starts with actually not letting the first few tomatoes ever ripen at all!
How To Get Tomatoes To Ripen Faster – 4 Simple Secrets To Get Ripe Tomatoes Quick!
#1 Remove Early Fruits
Tomatoes can certainly be finicky when it comes to ripening on the vine. Early in the season, it seems as though they can hang for weeks without the slightest change in color. And unfortunately, if it takes them too long, they often rot from within before ever completely maturing.
For that reason and more, it’s actually best to remove the first few tomatoes that form on your plants. Although it may seem a bit counterproductive, discarding the first few fruits will actually help your plants produce more tomatoes. And even better – ripen the new ones faster too.
When tomato plants are first growing and establishing, they need energy. And a lot of it! Not only are they trying to establish larger roots, they are also growing a tremendous amount of stems, branches and foliage. And the more energy and nutrients they can have for that, the better.
Unfortunately, when a tomato plant starts to form early fruit, it takes away precious energy the plant needs to develop a strong root and branch system. And as long as those early fruits remain, it continues to divide its energy all over – which is exactly why it struggles to ripen the first tomatoes.
To help your plant grow first and produce later, remove those early fruits after they form. For best results, remove the first three to four clusters or tomatoes a plant forms. Then, once the plant is developed, it can produce new fruit more quickly – and dedicate most of its resources to the ripening process.
#2 Feed Your Tomato Plants What They Need For Production & Ripening
This little tips is a HUGE one! All too often, gardeners stop feeding their plants after spring. Or even worse, they feed them with nutrients that are designed for growing and not producing fruit. And when that happens, plants struggle to both produce tomatoes – and ripen the few that are hanging from the branches.
Tomato plants need phosphorous and potassium to produce blooms and ripen their fruit. Phosphorous is vital for helping plants set blooms and supply energy for blushing, which is the first stage of ripening. It also plays a critical role in helping develop young fruit as well.
Potassium helps tomatoes develop their sugars and meaty interior. When there is enough potassium available, the plant can quickly develop its fruit to make way for more. If there isn’t enough – the tomatoes will ripen more slowly.
Feed your tomato plants ever ten to fourteen days in the summer with a liquid fertilizer heavy on phosphorous and potassium – and not nitrogen. Nitrogen heavy fertilizers will grow large plants – but at the expense of blooms and fruit. Affiliate Product Link: Tomato Fertilizer – 3:8:7 Ratio Fortified with Humic Acid, Iron and Calcium
Liquid is the better fertilizer choice for summer feeding as it can supply plants quickly by feeding through the roots and foliage. Your plants will thank you with not just faster ripening, but also more fruit than ever!
Finally, when fertilizing in the summer, fertilize at half of the recommended strength. This will allow you to fertilize more often for a constant supply for plants – without the worry of giving the plant too much energy all at once.
#3 Less Water, More Air – How To Get Tomatoes To Ripen Faster
Although it’s good to use a liquid fertilizer, you do want to be careful of how much water your plants are getting in the summer. In fact, one of the biggest reasons tomatoes fail to ripen in a timely fashion is that they are getting too much water. Tomato plants actually suffer far more health issues from overwatering than underwatering.
Tomatoes need about one inch of water per week to produce a healthy crop. Any more than that, and the plant’s roots become water-logged, resulting in the plant stopping most production, growth – and yes, the ripening process.
Only water your plants when the soil is completely dry. In addition, the later in the season you go, water less and less but more deeply when you do. This will keep plants concentrating their energy on ripening mature fruit.
The Power Of Air Flow – How To Get Tomatoes To Ripen Faster
Along with proper watering, good circulation is another big secret to success. Plants need oxygen to grow, produce fruit, and most importantly, help ripen it.
Remove the lower branches on your tomato plants to allow for better air flow. For smaller, more compact tomato plants, remove the bottom six to ten inches. For larger heirloom types, remove twelve to eighteen inches.
Giving the plants space at the bottom allows air to flow freely. Not only will this help your plants to ripen their fruit faster, it also keeps them healthier as well. Proper air flow helps prevent disease and mildew, and it also aids in increasing pollination rates.
In addition to the bottom of plants, don’t be afraid to remove a bit of middle growth as well. Contrary to popular belief, light does not play a key role in ripening fruit, but the added air flow through the middle of the plant will!
#4 Ripen Off The Vine – How To Get Tomatoes To Ripen Faster
Last but not least, pick your tomatoes early! As it turns out, tomatoes ripen far better and faster off of the vine than on it. As crazy as it sounds, once a tomato begins to slightly turn or blush, you will have better luck picking it and ripening it off the vine.
Tomatoes do not need to be on the vine or plant to ripen. Once they begin to turn, leaving them on the vine will continue to use the plant’s resources. Resources that could and should be going to producing more flowers and more fruit. See: How to Know When to Pick Tomatoes – The Best Time To Pick A Tomato
So once you harvest your slightly turned tomatoes – where should you ripen them? A few places to avoid are sunny windowsills or in the refrigerator.
Once a tomato has started to ripen, it does not need sunlight to help it along. In fact, heat and sunlight can actually blister the fruit. A hot windowsill in direct sunlight will usually create too much heat. In the process, the tomato ripens unevenly and may even rot if left too long.
Refrigerators are a bad choice too. The chilling temperatures actually stop the ripening process all together. The only time tomatoes should go into a fridge is when you are trying to save a few for canning from becoming too ripe.
To ripen your tomatoes best, pick them and place them in a cool, shady location. The ideal temperature for ripening is actually around 70 degrees, with plenty of circulation to help as well.
Keep Picking!
Last but not least, the more tomatoes you leave on your plant, the harder time the plant will have handling trying to ripen it all. Pick your tomatoes early and often to keep plants producing and ripening. Once a plant has too many fruits hanging from it’s stems, the plant will begin to stop production of new blooms and fruit.
Here is to having your tomatoes ripen faster than ever this year!
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Tomatoes
Did you know that one of the best ways to make sure your tomato plants stay healthy, strong and productive this summer is to prune them? And that the earlier you get started on this simple task, the better your plants will perform?
Believe it or not, pruning can pay huge dividends for tomato plants. Not just by pruning off suckers and unruly branches, but by also pruning up underneath your tomato plants as well. And yes, even when need be – topping them off as well!
Left to grow as they please, tomato plants will morph into a tangled mess of stems, shoots and leaves. And that mess is more than just an eyesore. It also robs the plant of the air, light and the nutrients it needs to produce more blooms – and ripen more fruit.
Why You Need To Prune Tomato Plants Early
Tomato plants require a lot of nutrients to grow and produce. Unfortunately, there are a limited amount of resources in the soil available to feed a plant’s appetite for those nutrients. And when plants become overgrown with too many stems, branches and foliage, those resources are wasted on maintaining all of that growth. And more importantly, not on producing tomatoes!
Of even more importance, tomato plants need oxygen, light and water to thrive. And when a plant becomes overgrown, it can block all three of those crucial needs. Last but not least, an overgrown mass of foliage is also an open invitation to pests and disease.
All of that leaf growth allows insects to easily hide while foraging. And the thicker the foliage, the more moisture can collect and remain to harbor and spread mold, mildew and more.
The good news? Pruning can help eliminate all of the above issues and more – and all by simply pruning three key areas of a tomato plant. Pruning, as an added benefit, also helps make tying up your plants easier than ever! See our article: How To Tie Tomato Plants – The Secret To Tying Up Tomatoes
How To Prune Tomato Plants – Three Key Areas To Prune For Healthier, More Productive Tomato Plants
Clearing Space At The Bottom
When it comes to pruning tomato plants, the most important task of all is to clear the stems and leaves from the very bottom of your tomato plants. Branches and foliage at the bottom can create a lot of issues for the plant, and the gardener as well.
For starters, many of the diseases that affect tomatoes, such as blight, come from the soil. And foliage that touches the ground or that is close to the ground can easily have the deadly spores splashed on to their surface directly from the soil.
But clearing away the bottom area of plants helps with other issues as well. It also allows air to more easily circulate throughout the plants, helping to keep plants from mold and mildew. All while promoting ripening of the fruit at a much faster pace.
In addition, removing bottom branches makes it harder for crawling garden pests to have an easy ride up onto plants. Even better, it gives a gardener room to easily water, weed, and maintain their plants right at the root zone.
Listen In To Our Podcast Below On Pruning Tomatoes For Even More Valuable Info!
How High To Prune Up – Why You Need To Prune Tomato Plants Early & How To Do It!
So how much do you need to prune up from the soil level? For determinate varieties that tend to grow shorter and bushier, a good rule of thumb is to clear the bottom 10 to 12 inches of space by the time they reach full maturity.
For indeterminate and larger tomato plants, you can prune even more. These larger plants need more space to really allow air, light and circulation in. For that, prune as they grow to a final height of 12 to 18 inches of clearing underneath at full maturity.
Pruning Suckers – Why You Need To Prune Tomato Plants Early & How To Do It
Now it’s time to tackle the subject of tomato suckers. Suckers are the small shoots that sprout from where a stem and branch connect. They form right at the “V” area between the two. So why prune these small starts off? Because they serve little purpose to the plant.
Suckers rarely produce good blooms or fruit. But they still use the same amount of energy from the plant as they grow. And that energy could and should be going toward more production instead. In addition, suckers also block air and light as they grow.
Because of this, it’s important to remove these renegade branches as soon as they appear. Most gardeners simply pinch off the small growths with their fingers or fingernails. In fact, that is exactly where the term “pinching off” comes from. If need be, the small branches can also be removed quite easily with sharp scissors or small pruners.
Be on the lookout for suckers in the early growing stages of your tomato plants. The quicker you remove them, the more resources your plant will have for bloom and flower production.
Create Air Space In The Middle – How To Prune Tomato Plants
Beyond pruning up under plants and removing suckers, the last pruning chore is to remove a few select branches and foliage in the middle of your tomato plant. For this type of pruning, it’s all about clearing space to promote better air circulation, provide more light, and to keep pests and disease at bay.
As the season progresses, remove excess foliage from the middle of the plant to allow air and light to reach the middle of the plant. There is no need for massive pruning in the center section, just a branch or two to open up the middle.
Also, be sure to trim back and eliminate wild branches that shoot off to the side or grow into the next row. These branches use up a lot of the plant’s energy. They also are easily damaged and broken off in storms.
In addition, always remove any damaged branches as soon as possible. Plants use up a lot of valuable resources attempting to heal and mend these branches.
As for when to prune your tomato plants, it’s best to prune in the early morning or evening to avoid the heat of the day. Plants are at their highest stress level during the hottest portions of the day, and pruning during this period can cause unneeded stress to the plant.
Either way, pruning tomato plants early and pinching off suckers is a sure way to a healthier and more productive crop. So get out in the garden early this year and make sure your plants are in shape to grow your best crop ever!
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Tomatoes
Did you know that planting basil with your tomato plants is one of the best kept secrets to keep your tomatoes healthy and strong – and grow better tasting tomatoes? And – that planting it is as simple as putting a few basil seeds in the ground right around your tomato plants?
Basil and tomatoes certainly are great partners in the kitchen. There are hundreds of incredible dishes, salads and appetizers that pair the two together when it comes to creating delicious foods – but as it turns out, tomato and basil plants also happen to be great partners in the garden as well.
In fact, when it comes to companion planting, they are one of the best examples of all for being perfect growing mates. Not only do tomato plants gain huge benefits from the basil – but the basil gets plenty of great things back from the tomato plants too!
Why To Plant Basil With Tomato Plants
The Power Of Companion Planting
Companion planting in a garden is one of the best ways to help protect and power plants. A great example of how companion planting can protect plants is with annual marigolds. The pungent smell of a marigold’s foliage and blooms repel a long list of pests. And when planted around vegetable plants and other flowers, they help to keep them safe. See our article: Why You Should Plant French Marigolds In Your Garden
But there can be other benefits to companion planting as well. Some plants can help increase yields for another plant by energizing the soil with nutrients. It is even said some companion plants can help improve another plant’s flavor when growing in close proximity.
So where does basil come into play concerning its beneficial relationship? Believe it or not, it can do all of the above and more for tomatoes!
But here is the real kicker – tomato plants also play a positive role in helping to grow healthier and stronger basil plants. Here is an in depth look at what each plant does for each other, and how to best plant them together no matter how or where you grow your tomatoes.
The Mutual Benefits of Growing Basil With Tomatoes
Basil actually rivals marigolds in the pest repelling category. It is extremely effective in repelling whiteflies, aphids and tomato hornworms. All of which can spell big trouble for a tomato plant’s health.
But basil happens to repel mosquitoes too. The mosquito benefit might not directly help your tomato plants, but it sure helps you when you are working in the garden around them!
Beyond repelling pests, basil is also known to help tomatoes to healthier, stronger growth. This occurs when nutrients from the basil’s roots enter the soil and help to energize tomato plants. But perhaps best of all, basil is also thought to improve the overall flavor profile of tomatoes when growing in close proximity.
So do tomatoes help basil grow better? The short answer is yes. The large, leafy foliage of tomato plants creates a perfect growing environment for basil. Especially when you plant basil by seed. And, as you will see below, the entire process is both easy and economical!
Basil prefers moist soil to germinate and grow. And the canopy of tomato leaves helps keep valuable moisture in the soil by shading it from the sun. This helps the seeds of basil germinate better and faster – and allows basil to mature more rapidly too.
How To Plant Basil With Tomato Plants
Although you can certainly plant basil transplants with your tomatoes, growing straight from seed is a much easier and inexpensive method.
Since tomato transplants should not be planted in the garden until the soil has warmed to at least 60° Fahrenheit, that warm soil makes it perfect for basil seeds to germinate quickly. Seed Link: Sow Right Seeds – Genovese Sweet Basil Seed for Planting
Basil will usually germinate in seven to ten days. In warmer soil, it can pop through in as little as four to five days. With basil’s fast growing habits, if you simply plant basil seeds on the day you plant your tomatoes, it will be up and helping your tomato plants in just a few weeks!
Add in that a portion of your basil plant’s leaves can actually be ready for harvest (tender baby leaves) four to five weeks after planting, and it’s easy to see why planting seeds is the way to go. Especially if you are planting it around a lot of tomatoes.
Plant Spacing For Gardens & Containers
So how much basil do you need to plant around your tomatoes? And just how close does it have to be to help?
In a traditional garden or raised bed growing space, a couple of plants around each plant is more than enough to do the job. To plant, sow four to five seeds about 12 inches away from the base of each tomato.
As seeds germinate and develop, thin to allow two basil plants for each tomato plant. When you thin, don’t forget that all of those young seedlings make for perfect transplants into pots or other garden spaces. Even better, you can pot them up and give them to friends and neighbors.
When growing basil in containers, you can either plant basil with the tomato or in its own pot close by. If you are growing in the actual pot, you will only need to grow one plant to get the benefits. If you plant more than that, it can take too much of the moisture tomatoes need. In addition, it can take valuable nutrients as well.
Seed two to three seeds per container at the time of planting, planting the seeds at the very edge of the container space. Once the seeds germinate and grow for a week or two, thin to the single strongest plant.
Growing Basil In Pots Near Your Tomatoes
If you simply don’t have the room to grow in the same pot, you can plant and grow basil in a second pot and keep it right near your tomato plants. This will give you all of the benefits of pest protection, but will not help in any soil / nutrient transfer.
One thing is for sure, wherever you plant your basil, the plants will last. Basil is a prolific self seeder. Because of this, you will usually have new volunteer plants coming up all throughout the year.
Here is to using companion planting in your garden this year. And even more, to having your best tasting crop of tomatoes ever!
This Is My Garden
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This Is My Garden is a garden website created by gardeners, for gardeners. Jim and Mary Competti have been writing gardening, DIY and recipe articles and books and speaking for over 15 years from their 46 acre Ohio farm. They publish three articles every week, 52 weeks a year. Sign up today to follow via email, or follow along!